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John Lobb shoemakers is a highly respected manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that rose to prominence as a core of the shoe industry in the 1600s. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory continues to uphold the traditional production process developed in the Victorian era.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. For example, lasers are not used to cut leather. Instead, plastic templates are produced, which are handed to specialized artisans called clickers. Their title comes from the characteristic snap of the knife touching the cutting table. With special blades, they shape the leather in the old-fashioned way.
Production is carefully restricted, with only 450–500 pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees switch between twenty shoe types in a day, instead of repeating one routine step like in typical factories. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing the soles to be replaced without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb sources the best-quality hides, particularly from premium French calfskin. Only about sixty percent is appropriate for main shoe parts, while the remainder becomes supporting details.
The range combines iconic staples with subtle refinements. The classic City II model, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen model gained refined buckles and a more robust foundation. The Lopez classic, introduced in the mid-20th century, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth sneakers and the Levah shoes, which are offered annually in different shades and textures.
Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb stands as one of the pillars in the British footwear industry.
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