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John Lobb shoemakers is a legendary manufacturers in Northampton, a city that earned its reputation as a center of footwear production in the 1600s. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory is dedicated to preserving the methods developed in the 19th century.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. Specifically, the laser is not applied directly to the hides. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the clicking sound of the knife striking the cutting table. With traditional knives, they cut the hides manually.
Production is intentionally small, with only roughly 450 to 500 pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees often handle many designs in a single day, instead of repeating one routine step like in typical factories. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welted technology, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb sources the best-quality hides, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only 60% of each hide is suitable for cutting, while the remainder becomes smaller accessories.
The line combines heritage designs with modern updates. The classic City II model, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen model gained longer straps and a more robust foundation. The Lopez loafers, introduced in 1950, received subtle color and sole innovations. Newer icons include the Porth trainers and the Levah shoes, which are offered annually in a mix of colors and materials.
Through its balance of heritage and innovation, John Lobb remains a benchmark in the British footwear industry.
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