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John Lobb is among the most renowned manufacturers in Northampton, a city that became famous as a core of the shoe industry in the 1600s. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory remains committed to the craft techniques developed in the 19th century.

Technology is used, but sparingly. For example, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to specialized artisans called clickers. Their title comes from the clicking sound of the knife blade hitting the cutting table. With special blades, they cut the hides manually.

Production is intentionally small, with only roughly 450 to 500 pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welted technology, allowing a leaky sole to be removed without damaging the upper.

As with Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only slightly more than half of the leather is appropriate for main shoe parts, while the remainder becomes smaller accessories.

The collection combines timeless classics with contemporary tweaks. The classic City II model, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen model gained elongated straps and a more robust foundation. The Lopez model, introduced in the 1950s, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth sneakers and the Levah trainers, which are offered annually in a mix of colors and materials.

Through its commitment to tradition and quality, John Lobb remains one of the pillars in English shoemaking.

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